Teaching A Puppy To Retrieve

By John Kegel

There are two basic methods for teaching a hunting dog to retrieve. The first and most popular one is the so called "natural method" which is, as the name implies, based on development and stimulation of the dog's inborn retrieving instinct. The second method is known as "force training to retrieve." This is the method advocated in the NAVHDA training program.

Both methods have their pros and cons. We will focus on the natural method in this article.

How To Develop
A Natural Retriever

To be successful with this method of training, we should start with as young a dog as possible. A seven or eight week old pup is not too young for this type of training. However, if your youngster's inherent retrieving instinct is very weak or non-existent, then your efforts to develop a natural retriever will not succeed no matter how hard you try.

Unfortunately, when you buy a pup there is no reliable way of knowing if your pup has the right stuff to become a good natural retriever. You just have to take the breeder's word for it. Over the years, I have trained many dogs of different breeds and I am of the opinion that some breeds have a higher percentage of natural retrieve than others.

Breeders of versatile hunting dogs could argue that a natural retriever is not required, since all dogs can be force trained to retrieve. The fact of the matter is that over 90% of owners of versatile hunting dogs rely on the aptitude of natural retrieving in their training, mainly because force training to retrieve requires know-how, lots of patience, and is time consuming.

Let's assume you have acquired a pup named -Bud.- If Bud is to be a house dog, so much the better. First teach him to lie down, a most useful command for a house dog. Say 'down~ and force him down with the flat of your hand. Try this several times, always giving the command down- and praising him between each attempt. If he is reluctant to obey push him down, but don't lose your temper.

Bud has to learn one more command before he is ready to start retrieving. The command "come- or -here- is going to be taught now. To start him on these commands, I like to use the reward system. Command Bud into a down position then place his food dish, with a little food in it, about ten feet away. Stand behind the dish and say -come- or -here- (I prefer "here-). Let him consume the food. Then repeat the exercise. Fifteen or twenty minutes of this exercise should suffice. Now Bud should respond to -down- and -come- or -here- (I hope) and is ready for his first retrieving lesson.

For the first retrieving lesson take an old woolen sock of yours and tie a knot in the middle. You can use other objects, of course, but I always had best results with the old sock. Using a sock will also save you money. A bumper type dummy will cost you five bucks with no guarantee that he will retrieve it.

Bud should be in a down position on your right side. Wiggle the sock a few times in front of the pup's nose then throw it a few feet away and give the command -fetch- with great enthusiasm, and at the same time give Bud a push in the direction of the sock. As soon as Bud picks up the sock, call him back with "come- or "here"

It's best to have these first lessons in an enclosed area just in case Bud doesn't remember the "come- or "here- command. Make a game of it and most young puppies will gladly retrieve the object in the spirit of play. Five to ten minutes play retrieving is long enough for the first few lessons. If he starts to lose interest, stop for the day.

Gradually, change to a sock filled with feathers, then to a cold dead pigeon with the wings taped to the body. Don't use dead or live game birds at this point. I like to delay the retrieving of game birds until his field training is completed. Always use lots of praise when he comes back with the retrieved object and say "out" while taking the abject from him.

Gradually, increase the distance of the retrieve and start throwing the dead pigeon into first light and then heavier cover. If everything goes according to plan, you should have a pretty enthusiastic and reliable retriever by the time hunting season comes around.

Problems ?

In dog training, things seldom go according to plan and have to be dealt with. Here are some potential problems.

Puppy won't pick up sock - Repeat training session a few days later using different articles, even a dead wing taped pigeon. If your pup still does not show any interest, he has to be force trained to retrieve.
Puppy returns with sock, dummy or pigeon but refuses to give it up—Place one hand on the retrieved object and with the other hand lift his flank. Guaranteed to work!
Puppy retrieves object but runs away from you—Never chase the puppy! Call him and run in the opposite direction. Clap your hands or do anything to get his attention to follow you.
Puppy starts pulling feathers or chewing the bird—Yell at the dog and hope he stops. If he continues doing it, rush over to him, pinch his lips against the teeth very hard, and place the bird in his mouth. Put him in a down position and then go back and call him. This procedure may have to be repeated dozens of times, but make him do it.
If too many problems are encountered. it is best to force train your pup.

Edited for Public Use: Training Articles are provided as an International NAVHDA
educational service and are not an endorsement for any particular method.
from The NAVHDA Newsletter, April 1992

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